Sewing · Uncategorized

In da hood

The eternal quest for a mid season jacket was not as eternal as I had expected. I had high standards, I wanted a country mouse coat that looked like a city mouse coat (if you’re confused google the country mouse city mouse story). Or in plain English it needs to be functional and pretty. I wanted a hood, I wanted it to be just waist length, I wanted nice big pockets… Is any of that too much to ask for?

After hunting for patterns that might meet my need a vintage ‘Sunday People Pattern’ was found that looked like it could fit the bill…

Check out those groovy trousers! So yeah this one looks perfect, asides from the 36″ bust… I take a 34″. So… against my usual tendencies… a muslin was required. But there was still a small obstacle to overcome.. the vintage part of the pattern. Each piece was not printed, it was numbered with punched holes, had the usual wedge markers… and then yet more holes to indicate the rest. This took some… translating.

So tracing done, and muslin done showed me that the shoulders were indeed too wide. I used my French curve to shave off those few inches, then went for it in my final fabric choice… which was a very lovely 10% stretch indigo denim from Fabricland. The stretch isn’t important really, but it was a good weight and a lovely colour.

Yay trying to photograph dark clothing! At least I now have a lovely garden to take photos in.

Once the shoulders were taken in the jacket fitted perfectly! It was scaled out to the given size at the hip which means it fits over my pear shape juuuust right. I did shorten it 2″ too. What I did not do was shorten the pockets, which means they sit quite high…

But hey… they’re still huge! So I like that. This was also my first go at sewing in an open ended zip… my word they’re so much easier than regular zips!

I lined the whole thing with adorable cloud brushed cotton (for cosy reasons), but I did add a satin lining in the sleeves so it slides over my jumpers ok… with the brushed cotton sandwiched in between. 

The lining was a bit of a mare to attach, the hood went on first, then it was top stitched down the front (the whole thing was hemmed first), then I sort of tucked the sleeves in and kind of top stitched using bias binding. I’m still a little scared of bagging the lining, and the hood part hurt my brain so I think I took the easy way out there. Plus the hems are designed to hang separate. I just added tacks at the side seams.

But look at those cute clouds in my raincoat!

Speaking of hood…

I love having a hood! But would you believe that since finishing this I’ve never been rained on!! The injustice!! 

The whole thing is like a cosy little cocoon which makes it perfect for autumn. But hood aside… the detail I actually really loved on this coat was on the sleeves…

There are tiny little pleats on the elbows which make the arm bending more comfortable, the whole sleeve curves slightly in the natural shape of the arm. I love it!

The big issue I have with the jacket is that the hood doesn’t cover my fringe! I actually had to shave off the crown a bit as it turned out a little KKK (NOT ok!!!) but I think it should have come out a little more at the front. Hey, you live you learn.

I have plans to waterproof the denim. I have a spray which waterproofs fabrics. But I need to test it on a scrap piece first so I don’t ruin this little piece of awesome… in fact I found it so awesome it even got its own label… which I don’t put in many of my makes…

So this is technically my first piece of my winter collection… but I’d already finished it so it didn’t get added to my list… that’s cheating.

Ha ha… I look like I have a solar lamp sticking out of my hood!


2 thoughts on “In da hood

  1. Your jacket looks brilliant! It definitely hits the balance between practical and pretty. I love the sleeve detail as well, I’ve never seen that before on a coat but it makes so much sense. I hope(?) you get some rain soon to test out the hood! The big question though is… are you going to make the matching tartan trousers? 😀


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