I’ve struggled not having a mid-season coat for the last Few years, so when the new Deer and Doe patterns descended with their Hoya blouse (which I also need by the way) and the Luzerne trench coat, I completely fell in love!
Luzerne is an unlined, double breasted jacket with an a-line shaped skirt. I like Deer and Doe patterns as they cater very well for pear shaped people… not exclusively for… but that fitted and flared shape is really flattering. After my lovely other half bought the pattern for me (paper copy and everything!! No PDF sticking for me!!) I embarked on what I thought was going to be quite a lengthy project. Turns out I had it finished super quickly! Or would have had the shops been open.
I wanted to make my new jacket in a bit more of a substantial twill fabric than most trench coats come in, and found a lovely candidate in a sort of military grey online. It’s quite a crisp fabric which isn’t the easiest to iron, but it can be persuaded with a whole host of steam.
There were so many pattern pieces to cut out that it took me a whole evening just to get that done. I managed to fit them all onto just 2.5m of fabric though which left me some surplus in case I made a mistake… always a good idea! What I found tricky was that some pieces needed to be traced twice, and while it may say ‘cut 4’ on the pattern… I may have missed that, and only knew the duplicates were needed by looking at the cutting layout in the instruction booklet… which I then ignored in favour of using as little fabric as possible.
Now the pattern itself is brilliant! I’ve only ever used one D&D pattern before, and didn’t really appreciate how thorough they really are. It’s an expensive pattern, but you really get what you pay for! I also succeeded in making three very passable bound button holes!! Smug mode engaged!
So after the tracing and the cutting I decided that using up my lovely four day bank holiday weekend might give me enough time to really get stuck in to making this… and you know, I would have finished it if I hadn’t ran out of grey thread!!
And I know I sound like a broken record, because I’m always pleased with the things I make… but seriously, this right here is the thing I feel the most freakin proud of! I made a jacket people!! This is a new level achieved!
So prepare yourself for roughly a gajillion photos…
Ok so let’s start with my favourite features on any item of clothes… pockets! These are like buckets… I’m pretty sure I could fit a cat in one of these pockets! If I had a cat of course… or wasn’t really allergic to cats… maybe cats are a bad idea…
They have a kind of fake welt edging which, while being really easy to do, looks really smart!
You can see the immense pockets on the inside lined and finished with bias binding. The whole of the guts of the jacket are finished with bias binding. I have seriously never used so much of the stuff! While I thought using the paler grey would look really pretty… I ran out (on a bank holiday when all shops are shut), so continued to use a darker grey. It’s at least symmetrical so I don’t mind too much. It might have been quite time consuming but it looks hella smart.
Some of the little details really set this pattern apart though, the sleeves for example, have lovely buttoned tabs across them…
Speaking of which… the belt had to wait until today to be finished, due to that lack of grey thread. It needed top stitching which is enough to give it a crisp finish. I will admit I was most disappointed with the belt. I would have liked it to have been longer. I’ve got that surplus fabric leftover though so I could make another longer one if I felt the urge.
So then… I’m not even sorry for the long post… so I won’t apologise… it was worth it. But I’m guessing you are wondering about what I have on the lapel of my jacket of awesomeness…